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The Bra Fitter Diaries: A Glossary of Bra Terms

Last week we talked about the difficulty with defining words like “sexy” when it comes to lingerie. Thankfully there are some bra terms that are a little easier to pin down, so we’ve created a little cheat sheet of their definitions for you.

Anatomy of a Bra

Gore – This is the centre part of the bra, where the two cups meet.

J-hook – A feature of many convertible bras, the j-hook is a hook and eye on the back of the bra straps that allows you to convert your bra into a racerback.

The centre gore is the part where the cups meet. That pink bow marks the spot!

The centre gore is the part where the cups meet. That pink bow marks the spot!

The j-hook holds the straps together without the need for a separate accessory.

The j-hook holds the straps together without the need for a separate accessory.

 

Bra Styles

Full cup – This one does what it says: it’s fuller coverage. Another feature of this style is more in-set straps, which can be handy for those of us with small or sloped shoulders.

Demi – Basically a half-cup. The top of the cups is a straight line, with wide set straps, creating a square neckline.

Balconette – This style is similar to a demi in that it offers lower coverage and wide-set straps, but it creates a sweetheart neckline rather than square.

Bandless – Most bras have a bit of extra fabric that extends below the wires, even if it’s just a little lace. A bandless bra leaves this out and stops after the underwire. (If you find that your bra band flips up in the front or causes discomfort, you might want to check out a bandless style.)

Yvette, by Goddess & Portia, by Playful Promises

Full cup vs. demi

Bibi, by Ewa Michalak

Balconette

 

Shallow breasts!

Shallow breasts!

Fit Words

Press – Just what it sounds like: when the cup of a bra is a bit small for you, you’ll notice that the top presses into your breast instead of lying flat against your skin.

Pillow (a.k.a “double boob”) – A press on steroids! When the cup is super duper too small, it cuts into your breast, creating an extra little pillow. In extreme cases, it almost creates an extra boob, thus the “double boob” nickname.

Shallow – This refers to how you carry your breasts, or how much of your torso they cover. Shallow breasts are sort of spread out across the chest – they’ve got a bigger “footprint” than projected breasts. We also use shallow to refer to the cup shape that matches this body type.

The same size breasts, but projected.

The same size, but projected.

Projected – Projected breasts have a smaller “footprint” than shallow ones. Rather than breast tissue being spread out across the chest, it extends out from the body. For this reason, projected boobs tend to fit best in a deeper (or more projected) cup.

Scoops – As in, “Have you done your scoops?” Here’s how you do it: with your left hand, hold the underwire on your left side. Reach into the left cup with your right hand and scoop your breast up and into the wires. Now do the same thing on the other side. You’ve done your scoops! Doing this every time you put on a bra ensures that your boobs are completely inside the wires, which means better fit and better comfort.

Industry Words

Basic – This refers to a style or colour that is a permanent part of a brand’s collection. Basic bras tend to come in black and beige and we can order them all year round.

Fashion – These are special bras that are available for a limited time. Often they’ll be a basic style in a new, seasonal colour or pattern. We can only order these during a designated period, usually months in advance of when they would arrive in store. Once they’re gone, that’s it!

The bra world doesn’t have to be mysterious and shadowy. Let this glossary be a light shining through the fog – and if we missed anything, let us know!

Comments: 2
  • Andrew Shelton
    7 years ago

    I love reading this. I’m a male with gynecomastia and I wear a bra for support. I had a wonderful fitter help me a few months ago and it changed my life.
    So much so she has inspired me. I would like to be able to help others find a bra that fits.
    Do you think it is possible for a guy to achieve this goal?

    Reply

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