The Bra Fitter Diaries: Behind the Seams
In last week’s post on padded bras I talked a bit about bras with molded cups, as opposed to bras with seams. Since molded cups got all the attention last week, now I want to show some love for seamed cups. Here we go!
First, a quick review:
Molded cups are made by heat-forming a piece of foam over a generic “breast-shaped” mold. That’s why they can stand up on their own, and why they sometimes look a bit intimidating on the hanger. It’s also why they can be a trickier fit. There’s no one true breast shape, because every body is different! But if you prefer a rounder shape, want nipple coverage, and like your bras to be smooth under t-shirts, molded cups (like Fantasie’s Rebecca, left) are a good choice for you.
Seams?
Bras with seamed cups are sometimes called cut-and-sew bras, because that’s how they’re made: panels of fabric are stitched together to create the desired shape. Seams sort of direct breast tissue, so if, for example, you like a very uplifted, held-in shape, the right seamed bra (like Ewa Michalak’s Bibi, right) can make that happen. A bra with differently placed seams will create a different shape.
If you’re concerned about seams or lace being visible through your clothes, remember that these things are always more noticeable in the fitting room. Once you wash and wear your new bra a few times, the seams (and lace) will soften and become more subtle. To get a feel for how this kind of bra will work with your wardrobe, we have what we call the “worst case scenario” shirt, which is just a plain white tee. If you’ve ever worn a thin white t-shirt, you’ll understand why we call it that – they show absolutely everything! Trying a top like this over a bra you’re considering shows how the bra will look under the least ideal conditions.
Above: the famous worst case scenario tee, with a smooth bra (left) and a seamed bra (right)
What’s the occasion?
A lot of people think of bras like Bibi as special occasion wear. There’s the idea that molded cups are for work, for the everyday, and a seamed bra with a bit of embellishment is only worth wearing if you’re wearing it for someone else. I object! You can wear something fun and pretty just because. At the grocery store, around the house, all alone or out with friends – you don’t need a “reason” for pretty lingerie. This isn’t to say that there aren’t pretty t-shirt bras. It’s just that they’ve become the default practical purchase for a lot of people.
Ultimately, both molded cups and seamed cups have their place. One isn’t inherently better than the other; it’s all about how each one matches your own preferences and needs. Molded cups have become the norm for everyday lingerie, but don’t let that stop you! Do you prefer a more directed shape? Don’t feel strongly about nipple coverage, and don’t mind the hint of a seam or some lace under clothing? The give a seamed bra a try – you might be surprised at how much you love it!
